Monday, November 28, 2005

Adieu to the penguins of Patagonia

Fare thee well my oreo cookie-colored waddling friends. It was grand frollicking with you while I could. I have now gone to warmer parts of the continent and am far happier and rosy-colored than I have been in quite some time. I wish only good things to you and your kin and send my best to the members of the New York Zoological Society who are conducting research with you this summer; treat them well as they are like distant cousins to me and they don't know the patagonian way as well as you do. Oh dear penguins, or pinguinos as you are so lovingly referred to in these parts, waddle with care; be light of foot and always be mindful of the path before you, as it might change before your very eyes within but an instant's time. The days will pass and I will be crossing the Andes from Chile to Argentina, through the sun-baked trails of Mendoza, Cordoba, past the Jesuitic crypts and perhaps into the sub-tropical climes of Iguazu, where the waterfalls reign supreme. I will give my regards to the condors and take heed of their messages so when I visit you next, I will deliver you these ever regarded words of your northern kin. Only good things to you, only good things...

Friday, November 25, 2005

Aha!

Hello there! I am very glad to say that I am back and typing after the annoying injury-related hiatus. A night or two ago, I shed my very large, white, finger-sized bandage while ostensibly tossing and turning in the middle of the night. I woke up and it was gone. At first I thought it was a miracle (it was the middle of the night when I discovered its disappearance, all things are possible at that cognitive stage of awakening) then I thought one of my hostel mates thought it would be funny to take it off, but then I realized that that isn't funny at all but rather inhumane, so at that moment, I resigned myself to the miracle and went back to sleep. Only later that evening did I discover the bandage on the side of my bunk bed.

So... at the moment, I am sporting a nifty, very portable bandaid brand bandaid, which has since permitted me to do all sorts of things, like type, point at people, and twiddle my fingers in rhythmically accurate time (all very important tasks indeed).

So the past ten days have been quite eventful. I have traversed the massive Argentine land mass, greeting whales, penguins, cormorants, sea lions, and guanacos along the way. In addition to communing (or, at the very least, "ooh-ing," "aah -ing," and ogling) with the wildlife, I have been doing the hiking and (I dare to say it) outdoorsy thing these days (Scott, outdoorsy? Do those mix?). It is, however, a very Scott-is-still-wearing-sweaters-and-jeans-with-running-sneakers-while-hiking kind of deal. I am at present in the southermost city in the world, Ushuaia. It is rarely dark here. In fact, I haven't seen natural darkness yet while in this locale.

I do have many a story to tell, most particularly one of my more-kookified-than-I-could-ever-imagine thanksgiving extended evening into night into morning. Amalea left yesterday to do a volunteer program in Chile with sea otters and thus I was left to my own devices on Thanksgiving. I think I will need a bit of rest before I can fully describe the crazy, but it was quite the eve, quit the eve indeed.

Tomorrow, I fly to Santiago, Chile, officially beginning the Scott-flies-solo leg of the journey, taking me eastward by bus through northern Argentina on my way back to the apartment in Buenos Aires. I will be sure to elaborate on all things relevant. Until then, only good things to you all and belated Thanksgiving well wishes!

Tuesday, November 15, 2005

My apologies...

It has been some time since my last entry. A few days ago, I sustained an injury to my right ring finger (my nail was partially taken off and had to be completely removed at the hospital) while on a rafting trip that has since put me in quite a bit of pain and partially out of commission, especially when it comes to typing (right now, I am handling the whole keyboard with my thankfully functional left hand, good 'ole lefty). Fortunately, the doctors at the hospital in El Bolson have been fantastic to me and all should be well. I have not let the pain stop me from enjoying this unbelievably beautiful rural hippie mountain town, rife with artesanal chocolate, ice cream, and beer and gorgeous views of the andes. I have been hiking almost every day since the incident, and while the loss has slowed me down, I am not letting it ruin the journey. I hope to be back up and typing (among other things, naturally) real soon, but I was told it'll take about three months before I have a complete nail again. Such is life. Nevertheless, I am having a great time and look forward to tomorrow eve as we embark upon a bus journey to Puerto Madryn, a whale watchin', penguin waddlin' kind of place, from what I have been told. So, that is indeed the deal. Best!

Tuesday, November 08, 2005


A taste of Argentinean political sentiment... They love their dulce, their beef, and their kissy kissy, but they sure do not have love for the W. Posted by Picasa


The two of us on the restricted grounds, capturing the esteem and curiosity of Argentinean youngsters and the disapproval of their nearby parents... Posted by Picasa


Amalea, such a rebel she is... Posted by Picasa


Ever see Muppetts Take Manhattan? Remember that scene where the gang is living in lockers at the train station? Well, this is kind of like that except with dead people. This is at the Recoleta Cemetery, where many a wealthy and prominent Argentinean have come to rest their esteemed bones. Posted by Picasa


Buenos Aires Indeed Posted by Picasa

Thursday, November 03, 2005

Kissy Kissy Kissy - Argentinean PDAs

While Paris had its conical shrubbery and crepes as elements that defined the city's cultural identity and life force (yes, I think that shrubs and crepes are indeed that powerful), Buenos Aires has its dulce de leche (which is on just about everything you could imagine, it pops up every where in your food), beef, and kissy kissy kiss kiss. Oh, yeah, I should add dog poop (you knew it was coming). Definitely dog poop. But especially kissy kissy kiss kiss, all over the place. Everyone in Buenos Aires is in love, or at the very least pretending to be. And the porteño couples have established a united front of public displays of affection in locales everywhere. Perhaps it is because it is technically late spring early summer and, as we all know, this is the time for young chicks and roosters to find each other and blissfully unite for a series of swingin' eves at the coop, so to speak. All I know is that eveywhere I go, I am either in danger of stepping into doggy doo or another Argentinean makeout session and I must admit, I am not sure which one makes me more uncomfortable. Don't get me wrong, I am all about love. It's just that sometimes I like to promenade through pretty parks, fair grounds, pancho stands (pancho = hot dog, isn't that great?) tree-lined streets, or traffic-circles (yes, they've taken control of the traffic circles) without kissy kiss kiss in my path. But, alas, I will survive the porteño pdas and even the often poopified streets and still live to love this city for ever more, because the place has a solid spirit, perhaps even because of the poop and such. Who knows? Kissy kissy kiss kiss! Poop! (How old am I exactly?)

Accidentally deemed a rock star in Argentina...

So yesterday I somehow stumbled into being declared a rock star in Argentina...well perhaps not in Argentina as a whole, but in the small set of offices of LADE airlines, the passenger service of the Argentinean Air Force that we will be flying the (hopefully) friendly skies with on our journey down to Patagonia and beyond. Now I had no intention of framing myself as a rock star, but one thing just led to another and suddenly I was the subject (presumably) of many a whisper and giggle in an office of primarily 20-something Argentinean females (the pain, the horror, the anguish). It all started when I sat down with a very nice, english-speaking Argentinean who elected to assist me with my travel needs. We talked, I told her about where I was going, where I had been, and the like. Aside from her belief that Argentina was multiple times larger than the United States ( Think Argentinean accent...now: "I know you have a big country, but Argentina is just so so big and there is so much to see here." Meanwhile, the United States is the third largest body in the world, both in geographical size and in population.), we were getting along in the dandiest of ways when she then asked me if I had ever been to Argentina before.

This is where it got a bit hairy. I told her yes, the truth, complete and pure, it even had a shimmer to it it was so clean. Then...then I said I was with a singing group at the time, also true, so very very true, I was in the game, the game of reality, a grand game. Then...then she said "ohhhh, a band."

A band...that dastardly dangerous and twisted noun, the noun that could mean oh so many things. It could mean a group of people of any kind, like band of brothers. It could mean a group of dorky brass, percussion and woodwind musicians with bad polyester costumes and plumes sticking out of their heads, like a marching band. It could mean an elastic, typically rubber harnessing tool, used for conventional purposes like holding pencils together as well as sadistic, recreational purposes like snapping your sister in the arm or shooting it at your third grade teacher (bad move, real bad), like a rubber band.

OR, or it could mean a group of instrumentalists-vocalists of questionable musical skill and sexual prowess, who "band" together (ah, a verb usage, so horribly versatile this word is) to perform for audiences with questionable (meaning, could go either way or all ways) listening skills and emotional stability, all for the purpose of exercising some kind of worship, most likely of the performers themselves, but perhaps, for the heady ones, Bacchus, the Roman god of wine (hmm, likely not).

Anyway, I seriously digress, the point is she said the word ¨band¨and I let it go. I thought it was harmless and technically it was a band, hmm... And then the word, that bloody, confusing word, spread, the spanish whispering began, and the giggles too, oh the giggles, the undeserved giggles. She asked me if I spoke spanish, I said ¨a bit¨and she then said ¨good.¨ I still don´t know what they were saying. Perhaps it was kind words like "oooh, cool" but in spanish, which could be "ooooh, muy bien," or "bueno," which is used ubitquitously by the way. Perhaps it was bad, like "he doesn´t look like someone who´d be in a band, too young looking or too short" or "he doesn´t have the right coiffant."

The point of this: I feel very bad about misleading a group of twenty something female airline agents into thinking that I was a rock musician and then having them smile and giggle in my direction as they looked at me for a short but nevertheless meaningful period of time. Hmm, strike that, I don´t feel bad at all about any of that, I actually think it´s fantastic. The point is: I am now known as a rock musician of questionable, if not inflated, success at Peru 435 in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina. You can find me there in my free time, which is technically all the time these days, oh loafing. Best.

Tuesday, November 01, 2005


Well hello there! The elderly laptop is back in action with our newfound wifi cafe in sunny and warm Buenos Aires. To start things off, I thought I'd share a welcoming greeting we received on our first day in Italy (naturally in Venice). Posted by Picasa


And now to Rome: For all our your Catholicized fashion needs, Rome sports a variety of upscale boutiques for the brides of "Christ" with that extra sense of style and pizazz... Posted by Picasa


And don't forget the priests who want show the big daddy up above that they too can drop it like it's hot... In those robes, those beats they'd be droppin' would be hot indeed.  Posted by Picasa


In the name of all things holy and good, what on earth is going on here? While we were exploring our inner mountain goat, climbing up the extraordinarily steep hills and footpaths of Capri in Italy, we came upon this stuffed animal exhibition of sorts. Ideas anyone? Posted by Picasa


Perhaps a more accurate portrayal of what Capri meant to us...perhaps not. Cue the stuffed animal crazy! Posted by Picasa


Nice, France is perty, ain't it? Posted by Picasa