Sunday, September 10, 2006

Reflections of an artful loafer, one year since passed

It has been just over one year since I touched ground in Paris to embark upon my journey through the continents, two of them to be precise. I returned to the States on December 17 last year, though it feels as if I have been dreaming for the entirety of the nine months since passed. In a way, I have been dreaming. Or, perhaps, I wish that this were a dream. In that case, I could awaken and continue from where I left off, step outside of my apartment in Paris or Buenos Aires (either one, really) and think to myself, "how shall I color my day today?". But, alas, that is not the case. I have had to enter a world far more real than the one I was so fortunate to inhabit during my stint as an artful loafer. In short, I needed to pay "the bills." And I am proud to say that I am fully capable of functioning in the all too real world of bill payment. I have done it and I can do it. Now all I need to do is find where I fit in this bill-payers world. Quite frankly, I'd like to escape, once again, as soon as possible. From time to time, I find myself dreaming of the pigeons and the wayfarers in Place du Contrescarpe, Paris, the sun-drenched peaks of the Andes mountains on the high-altitude passageways between Chile and Argentina, and the warm calm of evenings in the one-bedroom apartment I shared in the fifth arondissement. So, the question is, if you find yourself daydreaming within a world you have deemed a dream to begin with, where are you?

Saturday, December 10, 2005

Back in BA

Why hello there... It feels like it has been quite some time. I apologize for the gap in time. Solo traveling has been a lot busier and more intense than I thought it would. I simply assumed that traveling on my own would give me oodles of free time to roam and pontificate the meaning of dew and the romping of guanacos, but alas no, that was not the truth for me. For me, traveling solo meant doing a whole lot of talkity talk talk with folks on my path, many of them Argentine, and most often in spanish. After the two weeks that have just passed before my eyes (and, by proxy, the rest of my body), I have emerged a far better spanish speaker than I thought was possible. I even acted as translator for a bunch of Israelis in a taxi cab way up north by Iguazu's absolutely magnificent waterfalls. From bicycle rides to hiking up the sierras to taxi cabs to hotel desks, bus rides, and restaurants, I did a whole lot of the talk, and managed to meet some of the finest folk a person could ever request, and perhaps even finer than that. The grand mix included a pretty boy and a female police officer from Hamburg, a bicycle riding Jerry Garcia look-alike on my way to the wineries, a pair of uber-Norwegian sisters, an Icelandic young'n with an extraordinary ability to drink massive amounts of alcohol (or at least by my standards), and a very generous sprinkling of Israelis (ranging from mild to extra-strength Israeli), and there were many a more. This segment of my journey, while perhaps the most daunting at first, was I think one of, if not the most rewarding of all segments. It asked me to find friends and create home spaces on the spot as backdrops frequently morphed, sometimes even within the same locale. I also managed to get back on the rafting horse (after the whole nail loss thing) and go rafting once again, this time on the much more spirited and rapid Rio Mendoza. And I made it back alive and in the same amount of pieces as I was before, that being one. From crossing the stark and gorgeous Andes to heading northward to the sierras of Cordoba, from laying low and relaxing at a ranch in sleepy Villa General Belgrano to heading way up north to see the gargantuan Iguazu Falls, stretching my legs even into Brazil for a day, I have now closed my two week chapter of solo travel and have arrived satisfied and safe in Buenos Aires, the starting point of my Argentine excursion.

On my bus ride back to BA, I befriended a small 10 year-old boy named Facundo from a suburb of Buenos Aires. He had been visiting family up north and was now heading home to pack for summer camp in the country. This was his first long bus ride alone. He offerred me a mint-flavored sucking candy, I gave him some of my water. I showed him the Adventures of Huck Finn, he showed me the three marbles that he kept in an old Colgate toothpaste box, even the big one with the dent in it. We laughed at the old folks snoring in the back of the bus and stared out of the windows with curiosity and perhaps even a bit of wonder as we passed through the variegated worlds of Argentina's massive stretches. We fell in and out of slumber for the remainder of the ride and, just like that, we became friends. His mind was stocked full with beginnings: the beginning of summer, the beginning of bus trips on his own, the beginning of summer camp in the country. Lingering in my mind, the conclusion of my solo travel time, the conclusion of my time in Argentina, the conclusion of my time abroad. And I felt calm, I felt satisfied, I felt happy. I imagined our bus a ship passing others through the night in silence and drifted into some of the most peaceful slumber I had had in days. I woke with the sun and saw Facundo rustling about with the anxiousness of any 10-year old boy on a 20-hour bus trip. We were but a few minutes away from home and it was clear that it was going to be a gorgeous blue sky day. Off the bus we went and left for our entirely separate paths, he to his dad standing attentively outside the bus, me to a cab back to my temporary apartment a few neighborhoods over. He's going to have a great summer at camp, I thought, and I think things are looking alright for me too.

See y'all in New York in a week.

Monday, November 28, 2005

Adieu to the penguins of Patagonia

Fare thee well my oreo cookie-colored waddling friends. It was grand frollicking with you while I could. I have now gone to warmer parts of the continent and am far happier and rosy-colored than I have been in quite some time. I wish only good things to you and your kin and send my best to the members of the New York Zoological Society who are conducting research with you this summer; treat them well as they are like distant cousins to me and they don't know the patagonian way as well as you do. Oh dear penguins, or pinguinos as you are so lovingly referred to in these parts, waddle with care; be light of foot and always be mindful of the path before you, as it might change before your very eyes within but an instant's time. The days will pass and I will be crossing the Andes from Chile to Argentina, through the sun-baked trails of Mendoza, Cordoba, past the Jesuitic crypts and perhaps into the sub-tropical climes of Iguazu, where the waterfalls reign supreme. I will give my regards to the condors and take heed of their messages so when I visit you next, I will deliver you these ever regarded words of your northern kin. Only good things to you, only good things...

Friday, November 25, 2005

Aha!

Hello there! I am very glad to say that I am back and typing after the annoying injury-related hiatus. A night or two ago, I shed my very large, white, finger-sized bandage while ostensibly tossing and turning in the middle of the night. I woke up and it was gone. At first I thought it was a miracle (it was the middle of the night when I discovered its disappearance, all things are possible at that cognitive stage of awakening) then I thought one of my hostel mates thought it would be funny to take it off, but then I realized that that isn't funny at all but rather inhumane, so at that moment, I resigned myself to the miracle and went back to sleep. Only later that evening did I discover the bandage on the side of my bunk bed.

So... at the moment, I am sporting a nifty, very portable bandaid brand bandaid, which has since permitted me to do all sorts of things, like type, point at people, and twiddle my fingers in rhythmically accurate time (all very important tasks indeed).

So the past ten days have been quite eventful. I have traversed the massive Argentine land mass, greeting whales, penguins, cormorants, sea lions, and guanacos along the way. In addition to communing (or, at the very least, "ooh-ing," "aah -ing," and ogling) with the wildlife, I have been doing the hiking and (I dare to say it) outdoorsy thing these days (Scott, outdoorsy? Do those mix?). It is, however, a very Scott-is-still-wearing-sweaters-and-jeans-with-running-sneakers-while-hiking kind of deal. I am at present in the southermost city in the world, Ushuaia. It is rarely dark here. In fact, I haven't seen natural darkness yet while in this locale.

I do have many a story to tell, most particularly one of my more-kookified-than-I-could-ever-imagine thanksgiving extended evening into night into morning. Amalea left yesterday to do a volunteer program in Chile with sea otters and thus I was left to my own devices on Thanksgiving. I think I will need a bit of rest before I can fully describe the crazy, but it was quite the eve, quit the eve indeed.

Tomorrow, I fly to Santiago, Chile, officially beginning the Scott-flies-solo leg of the journey, taking me eastward by bus through northern Argentina on my way back to the apartment in Buenos Aires. I will be sure to elaborate on all things relevant. Until then, only good things to you all and belated Thanksgiving well wishes!

Tuesday, November 15, 2005

My apologies...

It has been some time since my last entry. A few days ago, I sustained an injury to my right ring finger (my nail was partially taken off and had to be completely removed at the hospital) while on a rafting trip that has since put me in quite a bit of pain and partially out of commission, especially when it comes to typing (right now, I am handling the whole keyboard with my thankfully functional left hand, good 'ole lefty). Fortunately, the doctors at the hospital in El Bolson have been fantastic to me and all should be well. I have not let the pain stop me from enjoying this unbelievably beautiful rural hippie mountain town, rife with artesanal chocolate, ice cream, and beer and gorgeous views of the andes. I have been hiking almost every day since the incident, and while the loss has slowed me down, I am not letting it ruin the journey. I hope to be back up and typing (among other things, naturally) real soon, but I was told it'll take about three months before I have a complete nail again. Such is life. Nevertheless, I am having a great time and look forward to tomorrow eve as we embark upon a bus journey to Puerto Madryn, a whale watchin', penguin waddlin' kind of place, from what I have been told. So, that is indeed the deal. Best!

Tuesday, November 08, 2005


A taste of Argentinean political sentiment... They love their dulce, their beef, and their kissy kissy, but they sure do not have love for the W. Posted by Picasa


The two of us on the restricted grounds, capturing the esteem and curiosity of Argentinean youngsters and the disapproval of their nearby parents... Posted by Picasa


Amalea, such a rebel she is... Posted by Picasa


Ever see Muppetts Take Manhattan? Remember that scene where the gang is living in lockers at the train station? Well, this is kind of like that except with dead people. This is at the Recoleta Cemetery, where many a wealthy and prominent Argentinean have come to rest their esteemed bones. Posted by Picasa


Buenos Aires Indeed Posted by Picasa

Thursday, November 03, 2005

Kissy Kissy Kissy - Argentinean PDAs

While Paris had its conical shrubbery and crepes as elements that defined the city's cultural identity and life force (yes, I think that shrubs and crepes are indeed that powerful), Buenos Aires has its dulce de leche (which is on just about everything you could imagine, it pops up every where in your food), beef, and kissy kissy kiss kiss. Oh, yeah, I should add dog poop (you knew it was coming). Definitely dog poop. But especially kissy kissy kiss kiss, all over the place. Everyone in Buenos Aires is in love, or at the very least pretending to be. And the porteño couples have established a united front of public displays of affection in locales everywhere. Perhaps it is because it is technically late spring early summer and, as we all know, this is the time for young chicks and roosters to find each other and blissfully unite for a series of swingin' eves at the coop, so to speak. All I know is that eveywhere I go, I am either in danger of stepping into doggy doo or another Argentinean makeout session and I must admit, I am not sure which one makes me more uncomfortable. Don't get me wrong, I am all about love. It's just that sometimes I like to promenade through pretty parks, fair grounds, pancho stands (pancho = hot dog, isn't that great?) tree-lined streets, or traffic-circles (yes, they've taken control of the traffic circles) without kissy kiss kiss in my path. But, alas, I will survive the porteño pdas and even the often poopified streets and still live to love this city for ever more, because the place has a solid spirit, perhaps even because of the poop and such. Who knows? Kissy kissy kiss kiss! Poop! (How old am I exactly?)

Accidentally deemed a rock star in Argentina...

So yesterday I somehow stumbled into being declared a rock star in Argentina...well perhaps not in Argentina as a whole, but in the small set of offices of LADE airlines, the passenger service of the Argentinean Air Force that we will be flying the (hopefully) friendly skies with on our journey down to Patagonia and beyond. Now I had no intention of framing myself as a rock star, but one thing just led to another and suddenly I was the subject (presumably) of many a whisper and giggle in an office of primarily 20-something Argentinean females (the pain, the horror, the anguish). It all started when I sat down with a very nice, english-speaking Argentinean who elected to assist me with my travel needs. We talked, I told her about where I was going, where I had been, and the like. Aside from her belief that Argentina was multiple times larger than the United States ( Think Argentinean accent...now: "I know you have a big country, but Argentina is just so so big and there is so much to see here." Meanwhile, the United States is the third largest body in the world, both in geographical size and in population.), we were getting along in the dandiest of ways when she then asked me if I had ever been to Argentina before.

This is where it got a bit hairy. I told her yes, the truth, complete and pure, it even had a shimmer to it it was so clean. Then...then I said I was with a singing group at the time, also true, so very very true, I was in the game, the game of reality, a grand game. Then...then she said "ohhhh, a band."

A band...that dastardly dangerous and twisted noun, the noun that could mean oh so many things. It could mean a group of people of any kind, like band of brothers. It could mean a group of dorky brass, percussion and woodwind musicians with bad polyester costumes and plumes sticking out of their heads, like a marching band. It could mean an elastic, typically rubber harnessing tool, used for conventional purposes like holding pencils together as well as sadistic, recreational purposes like snapping your sister in the arm or shooting it at your third grade teacher (bad move, real bad), like a rubber band.

OR, or it could mean a group of instrumentalists-vocalists of questionable musical skill and sexual prowess, who "band" together (ah, a verb usage, so horribly versatile this word is) to perform for audiences with questionable (meaning, could go either way or all ways) listening skills and emotional stability, all for the purpose of exercising some kind of worship, most likely of the performers themselves, but perhaps, for the heady ones, Bacchus, the Roman god of wine (hmm, likely not).

Anyway, I seriously digress, the point is she said the word ¨band¨and I let it go. I thought it was harmless and technically it was a band, hmm... And then the word, that bloody, confusing word, spread, the spanish whispering began, and the giggles too, oh the giggles, the undeserved giggles. She asked me if I spoke spanish, I said ¨a bit¨and she then said ¨good.¨ I still don´t know what they were saying. Perhaps it was kind words like "oooh, cool" but in spanish, which could be "ooooh, muy bien," or "bueno," which is used ubitquitously by the way. Perhaps it was bad, like "he doesn´t look like someone who´d be in a band, too young looking or too short" or "he doesn´t have the right coiffant."

The point of this: I feel very bad about misleading a group of twenty something female airline agents into thinking that I was a rock musician and then having them smile and giggle in my direction as they looked at me for a short but nevertheless meaningful period of time. Hmm, strike that, I don´t feel bad at all about any of that, I actually think it´s fantastic. The point is: I am now known as a rock musician of questionable, if not inflated, success at Peru 435 in San Telmo, Buenos Aires, Argentina. You can find me there in my free time, which is technically all the time these days, oh loafing. Best.